Nezu Tofu Kóbó Suda 根津とうふ工房須田

In the nineties, when we first lived in Tokyo, in a traditional house behind Gokokuji temple, there were three tofu shops within easy distance from our house. After a little while, we decided that we like the taste of one better than the others and went there to buy fresh tofu every couple of days. A few years ago, when I visited the old neighbourhood, I noticed that all three shops were gone. 

After that I have started to look for tofu workshops when walking around town. Some are still around, I have found one in the middle of Akasaka, but not many. Would they disappear soon, just like sento bath houses did? Supermarkets seem to offer more variety and better quality tofu than they used to - would that be the reason? Whatever it is, tofu makers must find new ways to attract customers. 

I think the Suda workshop near Nezu station found a way to stay relevant. First, they are offering new variations of old favourites: ganmadoki with shiso leaves, slabs of dengaku tofu with chicken flavoured miso paste, okara mixed with purple beni imo as a dessert. Second, they have a website. Third, they also offer lunch sets. Bento boxes with inari zushi on weekdays and a full set with miso soup on weekends and holidays. 

There are many reasons to spend time in the Yanese neighbourhood. Just now, the ginko trees sorrounding Nezu jinja look golden in the sunlight, camelias are blooming in the front yards and the Asakura Choso museum has reopened after almost four years. Sadly, there are fewer and fewer traditional wooden houses, two of my favourite cafés are gone, but the countless small temples are unchanged and the neighbourhood still seems to go about its business as it always has done. 

..... for a repeat visit, try Kamachiku, Ne-no-Tsu or some other fine soba / udon restaurant.

Food: 7/10 (very good) 

Ambiance: 6/10 (nice place)

Price-performance: 8/10 (excellent value)

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 Address: 2-19-11 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Tel: +81 (3) 3821-0810